Kacchi Haldi Sabzi

I know winters are on their way out, but there is still time to make the most of the abundant produce. While summers are for light, fresh flavours, winters are for decadent indulgence. Eat seasonal all the nutritionists say. So when you gather all those vibrant veggies and dollop everything with fresh ghee, you are basically doing your health a service!

There is truth in it. Indian cooking has always been influenced by the change of seasons and local produce. We have our aamras and jaljeeras in summer. And our til, jaggery and saags in winter. When the veggies are fresh and the body needs extra calories to fight against the harsh weather.

Fresh turmeric or kacchi haldi is a winter essential up north, though relatively unknown as you move to warm and milder south. You will find my entire fam sipping turmeric steeped warm water as the weather gets progressively colder. Or snacking on this delicious Turmeric pickle as the weather oscillates with the onset of spring. 
Another fabulous dish to introduce more of this miracle spice is this lip smacking stir fry. The Kacchi Haldi Sabzi or Fresh Turmeric Stirfry is a little known dish from the state of Rajasthan. It is a fairly traditional preparation that is hard to find in restaurants. And though it involves some laborious prep, I can wholeheartedly say it is worth every second of the effort. 

Ingredients:

Fresh Turmeric                    250 gm

Carrots                                 80 gm

Peas                                     50 gm

Cauliflower                         50 gm

Ghee                                    150 gm

Curds                                   250 gm

Red chilli powder                1 teaspoon

Coriander powder                1 teaspoon

Green Chillies                      2, chopped

Ginger, grated                      1 teaspoon

Heeng                                   a pinch

Cumin seeds                         1 teaspoon

Black Cardamom                 4

Bay leaf                                1

Method: Peel the turmeric and carrots. Chop finely into small pieces. You can also choose to grate them, but I personally like the slight crunch from the whole pieces. Chop your cauliflower florets into small pieces as well. Add the spice powders and salt to the curds, whip lightly and keep aside. Heat the ghee in a heavy bottom pan. When hot, add the turmeric and lightly fry till golden. Drain and keep aside. Repeat for the rest of the vegetables, frying each separately. Lower the flame, add the heeng, bayleaf, cumin and cardamom to the ghee. Once it sizzles, add the curds. Mix well and add the ginger and green chillies. Once the curd thickens and the ghee starts to separate, add the fried turmeric and vegetables. Mix well, adding a splash of milk if the masala starts to stick to the pan. Continue to cook on low heat till the vegetables are cooked and the starts to leave the sides of the pan. Serve warm, garnished with fresh coriander leaves. Tastes best with Bajre ki rotis!

    

 

Junglee Maas

My grandfather was eighty plus when one fine day he loaded a rucksack into the back of our jeep. Picked up an old army pal of his and drove straight across the country, from the south to the north east. We had no clue where he had gone or when he would be back. A month later he returned, with a rejuvenated laugh and a twinkle in his eye. And a huge wild boar in the back. Ready to be skinned and pickled.

Shikaar! Aah! That word throws up romantic images of tough men on horseback or open jeeps, rifles slung on the shoulders, tracking the elusive beast through dense jungles. Fearless and focused. Images of late night campfires and rustic food. Smells of sweat, rum and meat mingling with the smoke and the cool night air. 

I've never been on a shikaar or hunting expedition. But the vivid recollections of my father and grandfather transport me to those adrenaline fuelled times. When being true to the roots also meant being in touch with the most basic survival skills handed down by the primitive tribe. 

Hunting expeditions often lasted for days and meals had to be rustic and basic. Carrying fancy ingredients was out of the question. The meat was shot fresh and the only spices used were those that would not perish in the punishing heat. Out of these expeditions was born the hunter's Junglee Maas. A one pot dish with no frills and just a wholesome meaty flavour. High on calories and protein, this was the perfect meal to energize travel weary bones and sore muscles.  

The original recipe calls for ghee, red chillies, salt and of course, meat. The resultant dish is a mildly spiced, juicy and tender meat, crowned by a flaky and crisp exterior. A contrast that delights with every bite. The gravy is thin with a buttery goodness. And if you make it under a starry sky on an open fire, the smokiness from the wood will elevate it to a whole other dimension. 

Ingredients:
Goat Meat                 1 kg
Dry Red Chillies       20
Ghee or Butter          250 gm
Salt                            to taste

 Method: Melt the ghee/butter in a deep pot. Add the meat and the red chillies and cook for a medium flame till all the pieces are generously coated with the ghee. Add the salt and just enough water to reach the level of the meat pieces. Reduce the flame and cook covered till the meat is done. Stir occasionally, adding water if the dish starts to dry. Slurp it like stew, soak it with bread or serve up with some steamed rice.

SAFED ALOO

Rajasthan is home to unique flavours that transcend the mundane to ethereal. This is one such dish that traditionally originates from the royal family of Rohet Garh, near Jodhpur. This recipe is very versatile and can be adapted to most vegetables and meat.

To make Safed Aloo, you will need:

 Ingredients: 1/2 kg small potatoes, peeled and washed

                    4 tbsp oil

                    3-4 cloves

                    7-8 peppercorns

                    2 black cardamoms

                    2 sticks cinnamon

                    2 bay leaves

                    1 1/2 tbsp ground onion paste

                    1 1/2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste

                    1 cup curds

                    2 tsp coriander seed powder

                    1 tbsp dessicated coconut, mixed with water 

                    1 tbsp poppy seeds, ground to a paste with water.

                    4 dry, red whole chillies

                    1 tsp honey

Method: Soak red chillies in warm water for about 1/2 an hour. Drain and keep aside. Mix the curds and coriander powder. Heat oil in a pan and add the whole spices. When they sizzle, add the potatoes and cook for a couple of minutes. Add the onion and ginger-garlic paste, and cook on medium heat till oil separates. Stir at regular intervals. Now add the coconut and poppy seed pastes and cook for about 5 minutes. Add the curds mixture and cook on low flame till oil separates. Now add 3/4 cup water and the red chillies. Cover and cook till potatoes are done. The potatoes should be tender yet firm, and the gravy should be slightly thick. Stir in the honey and serve hot.